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Gmail will give me some advantages compared to Hotmail, e.g. forward incoming emails to my dayly used address.
Please update your address books if you have previously saved my address!
2006-12-06
2006-08-09
Long time no update!
Dear Blog visitor!
I've been a bad blogger and there's been no update since May.
The last weeks of May was very intense to get the bike ready for the first trackdays at Kinnekulle, 2-3 of June. The last bits (rear brake etc.) was in place just the night before leaving for the track! The two days was very fun and the bike worked quite well, though i had to do some adjustments on the suspension. I also had to move the oil cooler to get the fairing in place since I hadn't had the time to try it on before i went off for the track.
I've been to three more track days during the summer and I will back-update the blog with info on both what has happend on the bike and text and pictures from the track days.
Stay tuned!
I've been a bad blogger and there's been no update since May.
The last weeks of May was very intense to get the bike ready for the first trackdays at Kinnekulle, 2-3 of June. The last bits (rear brake etc.) was in place just the night before leaving for the track! The two days was very fun and the bike worked quite well, though i had to do some adjustments on the suspension. I also had to move the oil cooler to get the fairing in place since I hadn't had the time to try it on before i went off for the track.
I've been to three more track days during the summer and I will back-update the blog with info on both what has happend on the bike and text and pictures from the track days.
Stay tuned!
2006-05-26
Front brake light switch
I’ve been working with the bike all winter and still there are lots of small things that have to be fixed! When I was connecting the cables to the front brake light switch one of the connecting pins broke. A quick trip to a electronic retail company (ELFA) solved the problem, and the new connector is actually better then the original since it doesn’t have connector pins that can be bent, but cables instead.
2006-05-24
New ignition cables
Only one week left to this seasons firts track days and the bike’s still not ready.
The ignitions cables were everything but good so they must be changed. High quality silicon cables felt more appropriate for this bike!
The ignitions cables were everything but good so they must be changed. High quality silicon cables felt more appropriate for this bike!
2006-05-21
In the yard
Today I rode the bike back home from the garage. It’s just 3 km but I was really careful and rode really slow. What if I forgot something? Everything felt OK but I am really not used to riding this bike!
I hadn’t had the time to put on the front fairing so for now it’s a “nuda” DB2 !
Behind the Bimota is Jennys Ducati 750SSie that has been out on the roads for alomost a month now.
I hadn’t had the time to put on the front fairing so for now it’s a “nuda” DB2 !
Behind the Bimota is Jennys Ducati 750SSie that has been out on the roads for alomost a month now.
2006-05-18
Finally everything in place
Finally I got everything in place. Now it's just the tank and the newly bought battery left before I cross my fingers and hit the starter button!
Several late nights in the garage made me a little too eager to get the bike toghether. I did remove the petrol tap and I did see that the o-rings wasn't too good, but still I didn't double check that the tap was tight, and of course it wasn't! Petrol all over the engine and the next thing I discovered was that the paint I used wasn't petrol resistant! That was really a slap in the face after all the work with painting the engine!
However, when I changed the o-rings the tap was tight, and it was time to try to start the bike. At first the engine wouldn't crank although I had a new battery, but when I connected a car battery the engine started within just a few cranks.
What a relief!
Several late nights in the garage made me a little too eager to get the bike toghether. I did remove the petrol tap and I did see that the o-rings wasn't too good, but still I didn't double check that the tap was tight, and of course it wasn't! Petrol all over the engine and the next thing I discovered was that the paint I used wasn't petrol resistant! That was really a slap in the face after all the work with painting the engine!
However, when I changed the o-rings the tap was tight, and it was time to try to start the bike. At first the engine wouldn't crank although I had a new battery, but when I connected a car battery the engine started within just a few cranks.
What a relief!
2006-05-16
Yet a night in the garage
More assembly! Time for chain and clutch. I little pity I plan to use a closed clutch cover when the clutch looks this good!
I also filled up with oil and checked that there was oil pressure by cranking the engine with the starter. Everything looks fine!
I also filled up with oil and checked that there was oil pressure by cranking the engine with the starter. Everything looks fine!
2006-05-15
Mounting continues
Another night in the garage mounting more components: Oil cooler, inlets, rear brake, side stand, swing arm, rear shock and rear wheel.
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2006-05-13
Mounting the engine in the frame
Time to get the engine back where it belongs! My assistant mechanic Jenny helped me to load the heavy piece in the back of the car. With two bars throw the lower beams of the engine stand it was quite easy to carry the engine, though it is heavy.
In the garage we put the engine on two plastic baskets with enough space between them to allow for a hydraulic jack to be placed under the engine. We then placed the frame on the engine and fitted the front engine bolt. Using the jack we lifted the engine so that we could remove the baskets. Next step was to lower the engine to be able to fit the rear engine bolt.
The whole operation went very smooth, once you have figured out the right sequence.
In the garage we put the engine on two plastic baskets with enough space between them to allow for a hydraulic jack to be placed under the engine. We then placed the frame on the engine and fitted the front engine bolt. Using the jack we lifted the engine so that we could remove the baskets. Next step was to lower the engine to be able to fit the rear engine bolt.
The whole operation went very smooth, once you have figured out the right sequence.
Marathon night with final assembly of engine
Time to do the final assembly of pistons, cylinders and heads. The pistons where fitted permanently with new circlips for the piston bolt. The Pistons have an odd design where the oil ring can’t be fitted hen you fit the piston bolt, so you need to fit the ring around the con-rod, then the piston in the cylinder, the cylinder in place enough to fit the piston bolt and finally put the oil ring in place before you slide everything down. Did I forget to mention the gasket? Sh*t! Take it all apart and do it again!
I lent my special tool for the head nuts to a fellow Ducatisti some weeks ago and got some Ducati 1215 sealant as a “thank you for the lone”. Very convenient! Friends have had success using other sealants but it feels safe to use the recommended one.
I’m already two week in on my normal motorcycling season and I’m getting a bit frustraded that the Bimota isn’t ready. The fact that I sold my Ducati 750SS this week doesn’t get me less frustrated. To speed up things I decided to do some late night work. This is the second night in a row that I work passed midnight. Do I need to say that I have a very understanding girlfriend?
I lent my special tool for the head nuts to a fellow Ducatisti some weeks ago and got some Ducati 1215 sealant as a “thank you for the lone”. Very convenient! Friends have had success using other sealants but it feels safe to use the recommended one.
I’m already two week in on my normal motorcycling season and I’m getting a bit frustraded that the Bimota isn’t ready. The fact that I sold my Ducati 750SS this week doesn’t get me less frustrated. To speed up things I decided to do some late night work. This is the second night in a row that I work passed midnight. Do I need to say that I have a very understanding girlfriend?
2006-05-11
Valve train, squish and valve to piston clearance
The bearings on the cam belt tensioner was a bit rusty so I decided to change them. It’s the same SKF 6201-2RS2/LHT23 ball bearings with high temperature grease as in the clutch pressure plate centre. While the bearings was removed I took the chance to zink plate the tensioner.
I also wanted to check the valve-to-piston clearance and the squish gap before I finally mounted the heads, so I placed bits of 2mm soldering tin around the top of the piston and assembled the engine with the old 0.30mm cylinder gasket. The valve-to-piston clearance was found to be over 2mm. The squish gap was a bit tight on some places, the smallest value measured was 0.75mm, but since the new gasket was 0.08mm thicker than the old one, at least I will not make the situation worse. The 1215 sealant put on the gasket will also give maybe another 0.02 mm.
I also wanted to check the valve-to-piston clearance and the squish gap before I finally mounted the heads, so I placed bits of 2mm soldering tin around the top of the piston and assembled the engine with the old 0.30mm cylinder gasket. The valve-to-piston clearance was found to be over 2mm. The squish gap was a bit tight on some places, the smallest value measured was 0.75mm, but since the new gasket was 0.08mm thicker than the old one, at least I will not make the situation worse. The 1215 sealant put on the gasket will also give maybe another 0.02 mm.
2006-05-10
Head assembly
Finally the shims for the rocker arm shafts have arrived. They are standard sized shims so I ordered them as samples from a nuts and bolts company.
The Ducati workshop manuals where not quite consequent about the clearance of the rockers. My Supersport -91 manual said zero clearance, but both a newer M900 and the -01 900SSie manual said 0.05-0.20 mm clearance. I choose to follow the later manuals, but I set the clearance close to the lower values.
With the rockers all in place next step is grinding and mounting the valves and after that valve clearance adjustment. I’ve done this on Ducatis a couple of times before, so I’m familiar with the process. Just to keep track of all the measurements and figures I have designed a form where I fill in measured clearances and thicknesses of shims.
You can download the form here!
Unfortunately it’s only in Swedish, but I think you can get the idea even if you don’t speak Swedish.
The Ducati workshop manuals where not quite consequent about the clearance of the rockers. My Supersport -91 manual said zero clearance, but both a newer M900 and the -01 900SSie manual said 0.05-0.20 mm clearance. I choose to follow the later manuals, but I set the clearance close to the lower values.
With the rockers all in place next step is grinding and mounting the valves and after that valve clearance adjustment. I’ve done this on Ducatis a couple of times before, so I’m familiar with the process. Just to keep track of all the measurements and figures I have designed a form where I fill in measured clearances and thicknesses of shims.
You can download the form here!
Unfortunately it’s only in Swedish, but I think you can get the idea even if you don’t speak Swedish.
2006-05-09
More fairing work
I guess you will see lots of posts on the Blog about the fairing. It’s in a really bad shape and will need a lot of work. Today I did some more reinforcements on places where corners and edges where missing and where the fairing was cracked.
2006-04-24
Working on the fairing
While waiting for shims for the valve rocker shafts, I continued to work on the fairing. Some mounting holes where damaged and a corner was missing from a crash, so I needed to do some building and reinforcements. I choose between using polyester resin and fibre glass with random oriented fibres, or epoxy resin and woven fibre glass. I choose the later because the woven fabric is easier to shape and the epoxy doesn’t smell as bad as the polyester.
To get the correct shape on the corner I started off using fibre glass reinforced filler. After that I used a conventional filler. I didn’t quite finished the corner today, but I’m on it!
To get the correct shape on the corner I started off using fibre glass reinforced filler. After that I used a conventional filler. I didn’t quite finished the corner today, but I’m on it!
2006-04-23
Working weekend
This weekend passed mostly working on the Bimota.
First out was assembly of the rear wheel. Finally all parts where ready, and I assembled the sprocket, brake disc, wheel axle and brake caliper. Everything fitted as intended, and only a Bimota junkie can see that it’s not the original rear brake disc! The Cagiva Mito parts really melted in!
Since I ran into some problems when assembling the heads, due to missing parts, I decided to try the red paint I bought the other day. The fairing really needs some TLC, so I filled up scratches and marks with Plastic Padding filler and wet sanded one area on the lower right side. The spray paint wasn’t very easy to work with. The nozzle was a bit big, giving lots of paint. I guess with a little practice I can handle that too.
The colour tone was really as close as I hoped. Not an exact match, but as close to the cigar as you get! Below you find a "before" and an "after" picture.
I also plugged the oil galley in the vertical cylinder head that I machined some days ago. I used an aluminium screw and an aluminium crush washer to avoid galvanic corrosion due to different materials. I put a drop or two of Loctite 510 high temperature flange sealant on the screw as thread lock and an extra sealing besides the crush washer.
First out was assembly of the rear wheel. Finally all parts where ready, and I assembled the sprocket, brake disc, wheel axle and brake caliper. Everything fitted as intended, and only a Bimota junkie can see that it’s not the original rear brake disc! The Cagiva Mito parts really melted in!
Since I ran into some problems when assembling the heads, due to missing parts, I decided to try the red paint I bought the other day. The fairing really needs some TLC, so I filled up scratches and marks with Plastic Padding filler and wet sanded one area on the lower right side. The spray paint wasn’t very easy to work with. The nozzle was a bit big, giving lots of paint. I guess with a little practice I can handle that too.
The colour tone was really as close as I hoped. Not an exact match, but as close to the cigar as you get! Below you find a "before" and an "after" picture.
I also plugged the oil galley in the vertical cylinder head that I machined some days ago. I used an aluminium screw and an aluminium crush washer to avoid galvanic corrosion due to different materials. I put a drop or two of Loctite 510 high temperature flange sealant on the screw as thread lock and an extra sealing besides the crush washer.
2006-04-20
Red paint
Today I went over to a car parts dealer who can mix paint and put it on spray cans. I brought a sample from the Bimota fairing and went through all of their colour charts, which took me about 40 minutes!
The shop had the colour system from the german company Motip, and their closeste match to the Bimota red was KIA Performance Red with the code KIAPN(0).
The Performance Red existed in two slightly different tones KIAPN and KIAPN(0), but the later was the closest match.
Choosing colout tone from a chart is one thing. We'll see how close I got!
The shop had the colour system from the german company Motip, and their closeste match to the Bimota red was KIA Performance Red with the code KIAPN(0).
The Performance Red existed in two slightly different tones KIAPN and KIAPN(0), but the later was the closest match.
Choosing colout tone from a chart is one thing. We'll see how close I got!
2006-04-18
Aluminium parts back from anodising
Today I got some home made aluminium parts back from anodising. They are hard anodised with natural colour.
Parts are: Rear brake disc hub (low left), end caps for swing arm shaft (top left) and spacer ring for rear sprocket (right).
Now I have all parts to assemble the complete rear wheel including cush drive and rear brake.
Parts are: Rear brake disc hub (low left), end caps for swing arm shaft (top left) and spacer ring for rear sprocket (right).
Now I have all parts to assemble the complete rear wheel including cush drive and rear brake.
2006-04-13
Milling surface for oil galley plug
As I mentioned earlier in the Blog one of the oil galley plugs near the spark plug was leaking. I managed to retract the old screw and instead of just mounting a new plug in the same way as the old I decided to change the design to hopefulle get better sealing function. My idea was to mill a flat surface around the hole and use a screw with a crush washer for sealing.
It took me a couple of hours to finish the job and most of the time I spent finding a suitable way to clamp the cylinder head. Once it was in position it took about 15 minutes to do the actual milling.
It took me a couple of hours to finish the job and most of the time I spent finding a suitable way to clamp the cylinder head. Once it was in position it took about 15 minutes to do the actual milling.
2006-04-12
Glass bead blasting
Finally everything was ready for glass bead blasting of the cylinder heads. My friend Julius works as a blacksmith, and has blasting cabinet at work that he kindly let me use.
We did some test on aluminium plates and found that we got a smoother surface if we reduced the air pressure to about 6 bars. Unfortunately that made the process slower and I needed about four hours to finish both heads and the clutch cover. Julius got really tired and fell asleep on a sofa in the office, but I wanted to finish the work really bad, so I kept on until I was finished.
I’m quite satisfied with the result. Hopefully the surface got smooth enough to not let too much dirt stuck on it, since I intend to leave it untreated.
We did some test on aluminium plates and found that we got a smoother surface if we reduced the air pressure to about 6 bars. Unfortunately that made the process slower and I needed about four hours to finish both heads and the clutch cover. Julius got really tired and fell asleep on a sofa in the office, but I wanted to finish the work really bad, so I kept on until I was finished.
I’m quite satisfied with the result. Hopefully the surface got smooth enough to not let too much dirt stuck on it, since I intend to leave it untreated.
2006-04-08
Some parts arrive
This week I got some parts I have ordered. First was a new rear brake caliper bracket. The The original bracket was damaged in an incident where the previous owner lost the rear calliper and one quarter of the brake disc while driving. Luckily he survivied!
I have earlier written about the work of measuring and making a drawing of the bracket. As I never thought I was going to find a spare part, my intention was to have someone milling a new part for me from my drawing. However I got a tip from Christian Jaekel on the Bimota mailing list that a former German distributor of Bimota, Reinold Kraft, still had some parts in stock. I sent them an e-mail and bingo! The bracket was on their shelf. The transaction was smooth. They accepted credit card and I sent a fax with my card number. About one week later the part arrived in my mailbox.
The second part that arrived was a new closer rocker to replace the damaged one I mentioned earlier. A new rocker costs about €135 ($150) here in Sweden, but I got a new rocker on German Ebay for €78 inlcuding shipping.
I have earlier written about the work of measuring and making a drawing of the bracket. As I never thought I was going to find a spare part, my intention was to have someone milling a new part for me from my drawing. However I got a tip from Christian Jaekel on the Bimota mailing list that a former German distributor of Bimota, Reinold Kraft, still had some parts in stock. I sent them an e-mail and bingo! The bracket was on their shelf. The transaction was smooth. They accepted credit card and I sent a fax with my card number. About one week later the part arrived in my mailbox.
The second part that arrived was a new closer rocker to replace the damaged one I mentioned earlier. A new rocker costs about €135 ($150) here in Sweden, but I got a new rocker on German Ebay for €78 inlcuding shipping.
